Posts by gemlite

Another Kashmir sapphire lot that appeared at the same Christie's Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels & Jadeite Sale, held on June 2, 2015, that set the world record for price-per-carat for Kashmir sapphires of US$ 240,204, is lot 2032. The lot titled an "Important Sapphire and Diamond Ring," is a platinum ring of size 6, set with a cushion-cut Kashmir blue sapphire weighing 9.13 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds. Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL state that the 9.13-carat sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heat enhancement. An appendix accompanying the report states that the sapphire has a richly saturated and homogeneous color, combined with a high degree of transparency and well-proportioned-cut. A pre-sale estimate of USD 842,460 - USD 1,231,287 was placed on this lot, which sold within the estimated range for USD 1,061,941, working out to a ppc-value of USD 116,313.

Just two weeks after the Christie's Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels Sale held on June 2, 2015, another significant Kashmir Sapphire appeared at the Christie's New York Important Jewels Sale held on June 16, 2015. The sapphire known as the "Kelly Sapphire" is a magnificent sapphire and diamond ring by Cartier, from the Collection of Margaret Adderley Kelly wife of William Russel Kelly, founder of Kelly Services Inc. The Kelly Sapphire Ring which was lot 232 at the auction had a pre-sale estimate of USD 1.5 - 2.0 million placed on it. However, the lot sold for a much enhanced price of USD 4,197,000 which was 2.8 times the lower estimate and 2.1 times the upper estimate. The Cartier platinum ring is claw-set with the Kelly Sapphire, a 21.71-carat, cushion-cut Kashmir blue sapphire, flanked on either side by a trapeze-shaped diamond, and square-cut diamonds on the hoop of the ring. AGL and GGL certified the Kashmir origin of the sapphire, with no evidence of heat enhancement. The price-per-carat value achieved by the sapphire was USD 193,321, which becomes the 4th-highest price-per-carat value achieved by a Kashmir sapphire, when incorporated into the list above.

Three Burma sapphire lots appeared at Christie's Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels Sale held on May 31, 2011. These lots are Lot 3211, Lot 3212 and 3264.

Lot 3211, titled "A Sapphire And Diamond Ring by Suwa" is set with a cushion-cut Burma sapphire weighing 24.01 carats as its centerpiece, flanked by two shield-shaped diamond shoulders, mounted in platinum. GGL report accompanying the lot certifies the Burmese origin of the sapphire with no indications of heating. A pre-sale estimate of US$451,666 - $671,047 was placed on the ring which was sold within the estimated range for US$544,984. This works out to a ppc-value of US$22,698.

Lot 3212 was titled "A Pair of Sapphire And Diamond Ear Pendants." The centerpiece of the ear pendants was a pair of matching oval-cut Burma blue sapphires weighing 10.16 and 10.09 carats, within a marquise-cut diamond scalloped surround, and brilliant-cut diamond hooks, mounted in 18k white gold. A GGL report accompanying the lot certified the Burma origin of the two sapphires, with no indications of heating and stating that the hue of the blue color in these sapphires is referred to as "royal blue" in the trade. The lot sold for US$653,465 within the estimated range of US$464,571 - $709,761. This works out to a ppc-value of US$32,270

Lot 3264, titled "A Sapphire And Diamond Ring" had a pre-sale estimate of US$83,881 - $122,595 but sold below the estimated range for US$64,572, as the lot was offered without reserve. The centerpiece of the ring was a cushion-cut, Burma sapphire weighing 16.96 carats, flanked by trapeze-cut diamonds, mounted in 18k white gold. Two lab reports by SSEF and GRS of Switzerland certified the Burma origin of the sapphires with on indications of thermal treatment. The ppc-value of the sapphire works out to US$3,807.

At every public auction at least a few "Animal and Plant Motif Lots" are featured and make a reasonable showing. In keeping with this expectation, at Christie's Jewels at South Kensington Sale held in London, South Kensington on May 14, 2009, five Animal and Plant Motif Lots were featured. These lots are 12, 13, 18, 63, 104.

Lot 12 - A Ruby, Diamond and Onyx Novelty Brooch - by Gazdar. Pre-sale estimate US$1,068 - $1,525. Price realized - US$1,321.
Lot 13 - A Citrine and Synthetic Gem Brooch and Matching Earclips - Pre-sale estimate US$458 - $610. Price realized - US$661.
Lot 18 - Two Gem Novelty Brooches - Pre-sale estimate - US$763 - $1,068. Price realized - US$944.
Lot 63 - A Diamond and Enamel Brooch - Pre-sale estimate - US$763 - $1,068. Price realized - US$793.
Lot 104 - Two Antique Ivory and Pearl Pendants and a Gold and Seed Pearl Galleon Brooch - Pre-sale estimate US$915 - $1,220. Price realized US$7,173

Lot 12 - The novelty brooch designed by Gazdar, the Mumbai-based jewelers is modelled as a stylized wading bird; the body made of yellow-gold collet-set with circular-cut rubies; the long leg and feet also made of yellow-gold, and the feet set with calibre-cut rubies; the head and beak of the bird also made of yellow-gold, the eyes set with a circular-cut black onyx, with a circular-cut white diamond mounted in the center.

Lot 13 - The unknown designer has designed the brooch as a stylized vase of flowers, with a rectangular cut-cornered citrine vase; the stem and leaves of the foliage made of yellow-gold and set with an emerald and varicolored synthetic gem accents, representing fruits.
The matching pair of earclips are also designed as stylized vases of flowers, with oval-shaped citrine vases, the yellow-gold foliage similarly set with a circular-cut emerald and red and white circular-cut synthetic gem accents.

Lot 18 - Out of the two novelty brooches, one is modelled as two birds perched on a branch; the stem, feathers and head of the bird made of yellow-gold; the head with ruby accents; the body made of cabochon beads; and the stem/branch mounted with two circular-cut blue sapphires and circular-cut diamond representing buds.
The second novelty brooch is modelled as two cats sitting close to one another; an oval-cut turquoise with its long axis parallel to the vertical, represents the body of each cat; another oval-cut turquoise with its long axis parallel to the horizontal, represents the head of each cat; the whiskers, eyes, covering of the head and the tails made of yellow-gold; and the eyes set with rubies.

Lot 63 - The unknown designer of the diamond and enamel brooch, has modelled the brooch as a stylized fox, wearing a pave-set diamond coat; a transluscent green enamel cloak; blue and green enamel trousers; and brown enamel shoes. The head, hands and tail are made of yellow gold; the eyes are represented by white enamel with a diamond in the center.

Lot 104 - Only the images of the two antique ivory and pearl pendants are given in the Christie's lot finder. The image of the 19th-century gold and seed pearl galleon brooch is not given.
One pendant made of a carved ivory dog, wearing a gold collar with the enamelled legend "Eidelta" and two seed pearl accents, is suspended by a pearl and belcher-link chain, from a late 19th-century pearl single stone dress pin, the two ends of the chain connected to the pin by an emerald and enamel panel spacer.
The secondant pendant made up of a smaller carved ivory horse, is suspended by a single pearl and belcher-link from an enamel bird design suspension which in turn is suspended from another pearl single stone dress pin. The two dress pins are joined by a link chain. The antique ivory and pearl pendants are probably of early 18th-century origin.
The 19th-century gold and seed pearl galleon brooch, is modelled as a galleon with seed pearl sails and white enamel hull, suspending a pearl drop fringe.

An interesting animal motif lot that appeared at Christie's "Jewels : The London Sale" held on June 10, 2009 was Lot 38, titled A Pair of Gem Set Lion Brooches, by Van Cleef & Arpels. The lion brooches designed with textured yellow-gold, have their muzzles pave-set with white circular-cut diamonds, the nose made of black enamel and the eyes set with emeralds, with prominent yellow-gold whiskers and mane. While one lion brooch is 4.6 cm high, the other brooch is slightly shorter with a height of 3.2 cm. The brooches with a pre-sale estimate of US$6,464 - $9,696 sold above the upper estimate for US$12,263.

Another important animal motif lot that appeared at Christie's Jewels : The New York Sale held on April 22, 2009 at the New York, Rockefeller Plaza, and made a significant impact, was Lot 168, titled - An Antique Ivory And Multi-Gem Elephant, which sold for US$170,500 above the pre-sale estimate of US$80,000 - $120,000. The lot designed by an unknown jewelry designer from Sri Lanka consists of a carved ivory elephant, bedecked with gem-set robes covering the sides of the animal and its trunk; the relic casket made of gold and covered with a canopy of gold, being carried on the howdah placed on the back of the elephant. The bedecked ivory elephant is actually a miniature model of the bedecked "perahera" elephant that carries the Buddha's sacred relics, in an annual pageant of the Temple of the Tooth" situated in the City of Kandy, in Central Sri Lanka, in which hundred of elephants take part.

The eyes of the ivory elephant are set with chrysoberyl catseyes. The robes covering the sides of the elephant and its trunk are set with vari-cut, multi-colored sapphire, rubies, emeralds, star sapphires, star rubies, and cat's eye chrysoberyls. The feet and the tusk of the elephant are decorated with gold bands and the toe nails set with gold. The dimensions of the elephant are 8.5 x 9 x 4.25 ins. The bedecked ivory elephant is believed to have been designed around the year 1900. However, such bedecked ivory elephants were produced in Sri Lanka until recently, when the international ban on the trade in ivory and ivory products came into force in 1990.

The two Ceylon blue sapphires highlighted by Sunil appeared at Sotheby's Geneva on May 14, 2013 at their Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale. At this same auctions a noble jewel believed to have been once in the possession of Joséphine de Beauharnais (b.1763-d.1814), first wife of Napoléon Bonaparte, appeared as Lot 624 and performed impressively by selling much above the estimated range of USD 198,841 - 298,262 for USD 545,243. (PPC-value USD 12,600)

The centerpiece of this jewel, titled an "Impressive Sapphire and Diamond Pendant/Brooch of 19th-century origin" is a 43.27-carat, pear-shaped sapphire either of Burmese or Ceylon origin. The ambiguity regarding the country-of-origin of the sapphire was caused by conflicting lab reports issued by three different labs, GGL, SSEF and Gem Tech. The GGL report certified that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. On the contrary, the SSEF and Gem Tech lab reports certified that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin with no indications of heating. However, since two recognized labs have concurred on the Ceylon origin of the sapphire, it is accepted that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin.

The central sapphire is set within a frame of pinched collet-set, Old-European cut cushion-shaped and round-shaped brilliants and suspended from a detachable surmount of bow design, embellished with similarly cut diamonds.

In October 2011, at Christie's New York Magnificent Jewels Sale, another rare Ceylon alexandrite made its appearance. This cushion-cut alexandrite weighed 10.41 carats and was mounted on a platinum ring, with half moon and tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders. The lot was accompanied by an original invoice from J.E. Cladwell & Co. dated October 16, 1943. AGL certified the Ceylon origin of the stone and its natural untreated status. The ring sold for US$ 182,500 much above the pre-sale estimate of US$30,000 - 50,000. The PPC value of the stone is US$ 17,531.

The most convincing and incontrovertible evidence of Sri Lanka being the most prolific source of rubies in ancient times, comes from Ibn Batuta, the Moroccan explorer and greatest traveller of all time, who published accounts of his extensive travels in his travellogue, the Rihla (Journey). An extract from the Travels of Ibn Batuta translated from the abridged Arabic manuscript, preserved in the Public Library of Cambridge, and translated by Rev. Samuel Lee, giving details of his experiences in Serendib (Ceylon/Sri Lanka) reads as follows :-

"The King has a white elephant, upon which he rides on feast days, having first placed on its head some very large rubies. This is the only white elephant I had ever seen. The ruby and carbuncle are found only in this country. These are not allowed to be exported, on account of the great estimation in which they are held: nor are they elsewhere dug up. But the ruby is found all over Ceylon. It is considered as property, and is sold by the inhabitants. When they dig for the ruby, they find a white stone abounding with fissures. Within this the ruby is placed. They cut it out, and give it to the polishers, who polish it until the ruby is separated from the stone. Of this there is the red, the yellow, and the cerulean. They call it the Manikam (Tamil for gem). It is a custom among them, that every ruby amounting in value to six of the golden dinars current in those parts, shall go to the Emperor, who gives its value and takes it. What falls short of this goes to his attendants. All the women in the island of Ceylon have traces of coloured rubies, which they put upon their hands and legs as chains, in the place of bracelets and ankle-rings. I once saw upon the head of the white elephant seven rubies, each of which was larger than a hen's egg. I also saw in the possession of the king Ayari Shakarti (Arya Chakravarti), a saucer made of ruby, as large as the palm of the hand, in which he kept oil of aloes. I was much surprised at it, when the King said to me, We have them much larger, than this."