London-based Bonhams Auction House, one of the world’s largest and most renowned auction houses, founded in the late 18th-century and dealing in fine art, antiques, motor cars and jewellery, has announced the holding of its Fine Jewelry Auctions at its 101, New Bond Street flagship saleroom in London, on 20th September 2017. A total of 188 lots will be on offer at the auctions starting at 13.00 BST which also includes a Private Collection of Jewels by GRIMA.
Top Lot of the Sale is Lot 188 – AN IMPRESSIVE FANCY-COLORED DIAMOND TWO-STONE PENDANT with a pre-sale estimate of £1,200,000 – 1,500,000 (US$ 1,500,000 – 1,900,000). The larger diamond of the two-stone pendant is a pear-shaped Fancy Intense Blue diamond, weighing 4.03 carats, which is surmounted by a square mixed-cut Fancy Blue diamond, weighing 0.63 carat, in a claw setting. Length of the pendant is 3.0 cm.
GIA Report number 1182198420, dated 8 March 2017, states that the diamond weighing 4.03 carats is Fancy Intense Blue, natural color and SI1 clarity. Type classification letter accompanying the report states that the diamond has been classified as Type IIb.
A second report by GIA bearing number 1182305166, dated 13 April 2017, states that the diamond weighing 0.63 carat is Fancy Blue, natural colour and VS1 clarity.
The second highest valued lot of the sale is Lot 187, titled A FINE FANCY-COLOURED DIAMOND PENDENT BROOCH, with a pre-sale estimate of £650,000 – 850,000 (US$ 840,000 – 1,100,000). The centerpiece of the brooch is a 4.83-carat, rectangular step-cut, fancy greyish-blue, I 1 clarity diamond, with two matching square step-cut, fancy dark brown-greenish yellow diamonds, weighing 2.51 and 2.38 carats, placed on either side, separated by matching old marquise-cut, colorless diamonds. An old pear-shaped, Fancy Pink, SI-1 clarity, diamond weighing 1.90 carats connected at the top with another old marquise-cut colorless diamond, is suspended from below the centerpiece of the brooch. Accompanied by an additional pavé-set brilliant-cut diamond bow brooch fitting.
GIA report number 5181582456, dated 20 July 2017 states that the diamond weighing 4.83 carats is Fancy Gray-Blue, natural colour and I1 clarity.
GIA report number 5181597065, dated 18 July 2017 states that the diamond weighing 2.51 carats is Fancy Dark Brown-Greenish Yellow, natural colour and VS1 clarity.
GIA report number 5181597069, dated 18 July 2017 states that the diamond weighing 2.38 carats is Fancy Dark Brown-Greenish Yellow, natural colour and VS1 clarity.
GIA report number 5182597098, dated 21 July 2017 states that the diamond weighing 1.90 carats is Fancy Pink, natural color and SI1 clarity.
Lot 186, a Kashmir sapphire ring is another highlight of the sale, titled, “A FINE SAPPHIRE SINGLE-STONE RING, circa 1961,” with a pre-sale estimate of £500,000 – 700,000 (US$ 650,000 – 910,000). The size M, white metal ring designed by Pierre Baltensperger is set with a cut-cornered square step-cut Kashmir sapphire, weighing 9.61 carats flanked by tapered baguette-cut colorless diamonds on its shoulders.
Two lab reports by AGL and SSEF bearing number 1083523, dated 12 April 2017 and 78392, dated 17 February 2015 respectively state that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin with no evidence of heat or clarity enhancement. Lot accompanied by a copy of the original purchase receipt from Pierre Baltensperger, dated 21 December 1961.
Another significant lot of the sale is Lot 181, A DIAMOND SINGLE-STONE RING, with a pre-sale estimate of £80,000 – 100,000 (US$ 100,000 – 130,000). The size M½, white metal ring is claw-set with a D-color, VVS2 clarity, old marquise-cut diamond weighing 4.61 carats, the shoulders and upper shank of the ring accented with single-cut colorless diamonds. GIA report number 1182416344, dated 17 May 2017 accompanying the lot states that the 4.61-carat, old marquise-cut diamond is D-colour and VVS2 clarity but potentially flawless. Diamond type classification letter attached to the report states that the diamond is Type IIa, which confirms the D-color status of the diamond.
A Burma sapphire ring is another highlight of the sale, assigned Lot No. 182 and titled, “A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING,” with a pre-sale estimate of £75,000 – 100,000 (US$ 97,000 – 130,000). The size M white metal ring is claw-set with an octagonal step-cut Burma blue sapphire, weighing 18.50 carats, flanked by tapered shield-shaped colorless diamonds on its shoulders. Swiss Gemological Institute (SSEF) report number 94307, dated 3 August 2017, states that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Gem Research Swiss (GRS) lab, an equally renowned Swiss lab in its report number GRS2015-118402, dated 18 November 2015, states that the sapphire is of Sri Lankan origin, with no indication of thermal treatment.
Lot 153 – A DIAMOND SINGLE-STONE RING – with a pre-sale estimate of £70,000 – 90,000 (US$ 90,000 – 120,000) is another significant lot of the sale. The size “O” white metal ring is claw-set with an round brilliant-cut, S – T color (light yellow), VS-1 clarity diamond, weighing 16.72 carats. GIA report number 5182627590, dated 25 July 2017, states that the 16.72-carat, round brilliant-cut diamond is S-T color and VS1 clarity.
Lot 119 is another “DIAMOND SINGLE-STONE RING, circa 1960” with a pre-sale estimate of £60,000 – 90,000 (US$ 78,000 – 120,000). The size M yellow gold ring is set within a reeded mount, with an old brilliant-cut, N-color, VS-2 clarity diamond, weighing 10.61 carats. GIA report number 1186485351, dated 5 June 2017, states that the 10.61-carat. old brilliant-cut diamond is N color and VS-2 clarity
Lot 185 titled “AN ART DECO SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE/BRACELET COMBINATION, by Cartier, circa 1925,” is another significant lot of the sale, with an estimate of £60,000 – 80,000 (US$ 78,000 – 100,000). The necklace composed of graduating openwork octagonal links with ‘ogee’ terminals, each set to the center with a cushion-shaped sapphire, within a border of old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, connected by square-cut sapphire and baguette-cut diamond ‘pitched roof’ connectors, detachable to form three bracelets, mounted in platinum, signed Cartier London, numbered 1207, necklace length 55.1 cm, fitted Cartier case.
A Burma Ruby and diamond ring by Fabergé is another important lot of the sale, assigned Lot No. 158 and titled, “A RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, by Fabergé,” with a pre-sale estimate of £60,000 – 70,000 (US$ 78,000 – 91,000). The size L, platinum ring is set with a 7.55-carat, oval-cut, Burma ruby, highlighted by a double-layered surround set with colorless round brilliant-cut diamonds of approximate total weight of 2.00 carats. The ring signed Fabergé and numbered 1825/1, bears apart from maker’s marks, European convention marks and UK hallmarks. GGL report number 16100223, dated 7 November 2016 states that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
Lot 184 with a pre-sale estimate of £50,000 – 70,000 (US$ 65,000 – 91,000) and titled, “AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, by Cartier, circa 1965,” is another highlight of the sale. The 18.5 cm bracelet, numbered K9506 and signed Cartier is set with a series of alternating rectangular step-cut and octagonal-cut emeralds, accented on either side of octagonal-cut emeralds by brilliant-cut colorless diamonds. The Gem & Pearl Laboratory report number 14102, dated 23rd April 2017, states that two emeralds weighing 0.81 and 0.82 carats, were tested and found to be of Colombian origin, with indications of negligible clarity enhancement.
Lot 91 titled, “A 19TH CENTURY DIAMOND PENDANT/NECKLACE” with a pre-sale estimate of £50,000 – 60,000 (US$ 65,000 – 78,000) is another significant lot of the sale. The 41 cm necklace is a rivière necklace made up of 59 cushion-shaped, graduated colorless diamonds, the larger diamonds situated in front and decreasing in size towards the rear. A detachable pendant/brooch, 6.4 cm in length is suspended from the median cushion-shaped diamond. The pendant/brooch is of stylized flowerhead design, with a central pear-shaped colorless diamond weighing 3.29 carats, within a surround of 14 pear-shaped diamonds. Outer to the pear-shaped diamond surround is a discontinuous layer of 10 larger colorless cushion-shaped diamonds. The flowerhead is suspended from the rivière by a linear suspension of three cushion-shaped diamonds. Below the flowerhead a large cushion-shaped diamond drop is suspended. Approximate total weight of diamonds is 36.85 carats. Gemmological Certification Services (GCS) report number 77106-66, dated 5 July 2017, states that the central pear-shaped diamond, weighing 3.29 carats, is K color and SI2 clarity.
Another interesting highlight is Lot 96 – “AN ALEXANDRITE AND DIAMOND RING,” with a pre-sale estimate of £35,000 – 45,000 (US$ 45,000 – 58,000). The size K, white metal ring is claw-set with a 7.48-carat, cushion/oval-shaped Sri Lankan Alexandrite, flanked on either side by colorless heart-shaped diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. Total weight of diamonds approximately 1.00 carat. GGL report number 17040035, dated 13 April 2017, states that the alexandrite chrysoberyl is of Sri Lankan origin, and displays a color change of yellowish-green in daylight and purple in incandescent light.
HIGHLIGHTS OF ANDREW GRIMA’S COLLECTION
The Private Collection of Jewels by Andrew Grima at the Bonhams September 20, 2017 Fine Jewelry auction consist of 55 lots, assigned Lot Numbers 1 to 55 at the auction.
Top highlight of this collection is Lot 36, titled “A GOLD, BOULDER OPAL AND DIAMOND PENDANT/NECKLACE, by Grima, 1972,” with a pre=sale estimate of £20,000 – 30,000 (US$ 26,000 – 39,000). The main component of the 8 cm long pendant is a large irregular piece of green boulder opal representing a mountainous landscape with textured gold ridges and scatterings of brilliant-cut diamond snow, suspended from a textured yellow gold torc or necklace. Opals were said to be Andrew Grima’s favorite stones and this enormous boulder was the largest and most exciting opal he had ever seen. The pendant/necklace signed Grima bears maker’s mark AGLtd and London hallmark.
Lot 50 – A UNIQUE 18 CARAT GOLD AND PINK TOURMALINE WATCH BANGLE, ‘GREENLAND’, NO 15 FROM THE ABOUT TIME COLLECTION, by Grima, 1970 – with a pre-sale estimate of £20,000 – 30,000 (US$ 26,000 – 39,000) is another highlight from Grima’s Collection. The 5.6 cm inner diameter watch bangle signed Grima and bearing Omega mark, maker’s mark HJCo and London hallmark, is made up of an irregularly shaped pink tourmaline crystal within an irregularly shaped gritted yellow gold bangle.
Lot 48 with a pre-sale estimate of £18,000 – 25,000 (US$ 23,000 – 32,000) is another significant lot from Grima’s About Time Collection, titled “AN 18 CARAT GOLD AND GREEN BERYL ‘STEPPING STONES’ WATCH BRACELET, FROM THE ABOUT TIME COLLECTION. The 18 cm length watch bracelet signed Grima, and bearing maker’s mark AGltd and London hallmark, has a dial covered with multi-sided pale green beryl crystal with a highly articulated strap of irregularly-shaped ‘stepping stones’ of textured matt finish, mounted in yellow gold. The watch bracelet was exhibited at the “Grima Retrospective,” May 1991 event held at the London Goldsmiths’ Hall and was listed as No 255 in the catalogue.
Lot 47 – A UNIQUE 18 CARAT GOLD, CITRINE AND DIAMOND WATCH/BANGLE, ‘CERINI’, NO 80 FROM THE ABOUT TIME COLLECTION, by Grima, 1969 – with a pre-sale estimate of £15,000 – 20,000 (US$ 20,000 – 26,000) is another significant lot from the Collection. The 5.5 cm inner diameter watch/bangle signed Grima, numbered 811924, bearing scratched number 3255, Omega mark, workshop mark HJCo and London hallmark, has a large, oval-cut citrine crystal, within a bezel composed of a myriad of gold “matchsticks” decorated with baguette-cut diamonds, on a wide “matchstick” bangle, mounted in yellow gold. The design of this watch/bangle was inspired by tiny wax-coated matches – cerini – used in bars throughout Italy. It was exhibited at the Grima Retrospective, Goldsmith’s Hall, May, 1991; no 254 and illustrated in Johann Willsberger’s book ‘Grima’ in 1991.
Lot 54 with a pre-sale estimate of £15,000 – 20,000 (US$ 20,000 – 26,000) is another significant lot of the sale, given the title, “AN 18 CARAT GOLD, FIRE OPAL AND DIAMOND PENDANT/NECKLACE, by Grima, 1991. The 9.0 cm long detachable pendant signed Grima, with maker’s marks TES for Tom Scott and London hallmarks is designed as a stylized bloom.
The large central fire opal carved as a globular drop, weighing 55.33 carats is situated within petals of beaten gold decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds forming an inner multi-layered row surrounding the central opal forming a wreath of florets, More colorless brilliant-cut diamonds are placed scattered on the surface of the stylized bloom, the largest concentration of such diamonds being placed at the point of suspension of the pendant and a collar-shaped area on the upper left surface of the pendant.
The pendant is suspended from a textured yellow gold sprung torc/necklace applied with twining brilliant-cut diamond foliate motifs at the center in front
Another highlight of the sale is Lot 55 – AN 18 CARAT GOLD, CITRINE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, by Grima, 1974 – with a pre-sale estimate of £15,000 – 20,000 (US$ 20,000 – 26,000}. The 41.5 cm bib necklace signed Grima with maker’s mark AGLtd and London hallmark is highly articulated and composed of triangular-cut citrines and smaller similarly-cut diamonds, mounted in yellow gold, with hidden triangular snap clasp, mounted in yellow gold. The necklace reputed to have taken 248 hours to make, was exhibited at the “Grima Retrospective” event held May 1991 at the London Goldsmiths’ Hall and was listed as No 58 in the catalogue.
Grima’s versatility in designing is further illustrated in another significant lot, assigned Lot No. 24 and titled, “A CITRINE AND DIAMOND-SET BANGLE, by Grima, 1998 – with a pre-sale estimate of £12,000 – 18,000 (US$ 16,000 – 24,000). The bangle with an inner diameter of 5.4 cm, signed Grima and made by Tom Scott is designed as a cornucopia of ‘twisted wire’ with brilliant-cut diamond detail, with a large rose-cut orange citrine, weighing 74.12 carats lodged in the terminal.
Another stunning lot from Grima’s Collection is Lot 27, titled “AN 18 CARAT GOLD, PINK TOURMALINE, EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDANT/NECKLACE, by Andrew Grima, 1968 – with a pre-sale estimate of £12,000 – 18,000 (US$ 16,000 – 24,000). The 8.0 cm long pendant, signed Grima with partial UK hallmarks, is composed of two articulated “textured wire” clusters, each set with a large pear-shaped pink tourmaline at the center, highlighted by a border of pear-shaped emeralds and scattered with brilliant-cut diamonds, with one fancy-cut diamond at the apex, mounted in yellow gold, suspended from a torc necklace of matt and engraved finish to resemble a wide ribbon of golden threads,
The Lot was exhibited at the “Grima Retrospective” exhibition held in May 1991 at the London: Goldsmiths’ Hall and was listed as No 26 in the catalogue. It was exhibited suspended from a “textured wire,” emerald and diamond necklace.
Lot 38 – AN 18 CARAT GOLD, DIOPTASE AND DIAMOND PENDANT, by Grima, 1973 – with a pre-sale estimate of £12,000 – 18,000 (US$ 16,000 – 24,000) is another significant lot of the Grima’s Collection. The 10.5 cm length pendant, signed Grima and with maker’s mark AGLtd and London hallmark, is composed of a large green dioptase crystal, within a scattered border of overlapping gold squares of matt and textured finish, with eight square-cut diamond highlights, mounted in yellow gold, with a fancy-link chain. The interesting feature in the design of this pendant is that Grima has designed the scattered border of yellow gold squares to imitate the shapes of the dioptase crystal formation.
SHORT BIOGRAPHY OF ANDREW GRIMA, DOYEN OF MODERN JEWELLERY DESIGN IN GREAT BRITAIN
Andrew Grima. an Anglo-Italian, qualified mechanical engineer who served the British Royal Engineers in Burma during World War II, joined his father-in-law’s jewellery firm in London after the war, and took to jewellery designing, in keeping with his family’s artistic and creative talents, his father being an embroidery designer and his brothers becoming qualified architects. Grima prospered in his chosen field becoming the foremost modern jewellery designer in the West End of London in the 1960s and 1970s, winning several awards for his creative and innovative designs, such as the Duke of Edinburgh Prize for Elegant Design and De Beers Diamonds International Award which he won 13 times, earning the unofficial title as the doyen of modern jewellery design in Great Britain. Among his clients were members of the British royal family, and celebrated British artist and sculptor Barbara Hepworth and former first lady of the United States Jacqueline Onassis. His creative designs are found in the collections of Victoria & Albert Museum and the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths.
Grima sold his innovative jewelry designs from his exclusive gallery in Jermyn Street, Mayfair. In 1970 Grima designed the successful “About Time” watch collection for Omega and in 1976 a collection of gold digital LED watches for Pulsar.
Grima who was married to Helène Haller, niece of the Viennese jeweller who introduced Grima into the trade, divorced her in 1977 and married Jojo Maughan-Brown, great-granddaughter of Sir Thomas Cullinan, by whom he had one daughter Francesca. In 1986 the Grimas moved to Switzerland, first to Lugano and in 1992 to Gstaad, where Grima died on 26 December 2007. After his death Francesca and Jojo moved back to London in 2012, and since then have continued the family business creating unique and bespoke manually crafted pieces by Andrew’s master craftsmen.