Christie’s auction house has announced the holding of its New York Magnificent Jewels Spring Sale on Tuesday, April 17, 2018 at their New York Sales Room situated at 20, Rockefeller Plaza New York, starting at 10.00 AM. A total of 212 lots will be on offer at the auctions featuring an array of impressive jewelry consisting of bracelets, brooches, earrings, necklaces, parures, pendants, rings etc. set with diamonds, colored diamonds, colored gemstones, and organic gems such as natural and cultured pearls and corals, by renowned designers and jewelry houses such Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, JAR, Schlumberger, Graff, Harry Winston, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Among the highlights is a Fancy Intense Pink Diamond ring weighing 8.42 carats and five important blue diamond rings from esteemed private collections. Two notable jewels by JAR include an Oval-Cut Diamond ‘Thread’ Ring of 22.76 carats and a Multi-Gem and Diamond ‘Moghul’ Pendant Brooch, being sold to benefit the Art for Justice Fund. Noteworthy private collections are led by the Collection of Rita Crocker Clements.
COLORED DIAMOND LOTS
Colored diamond lots are among the first three top highlights of the sale based on pre-sale estimates, bearing lot numbers 167, 100 and 99 respectively.
LOT 167 – A RARE COLORED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING – the property of an important private collector, is the top highlight of the sale with an estimate of USD 4,000,000 – 6,000,000. Ring size 6, platinum and rose gold ring is double claw-set with a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense pink diamond, natural color, VVS1 clarity diamond, weighing approximately 8.42 carats, flanked on either side by a tapered baguette-cut diamond on the shoulders of the ring.
GIA report no. 5161289963 dated 7 March 2018, accompanying the lot states that the diamond is fancy intense pink, natural color and VVS1 clarity. A working diagram annexed to the report indicates that the clarity of the diamond is potentially Internally Flawless.
LOT 100 – AN EXCEPTIONAL TWIN-STONE COLORED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING, BY CARTIER – the property of a Lady, is the second highlight of the sale with a pre-sale estimate of USD 3,000,000 – 5,000,000. The size 5 ½ platinum ring signed Cartier, bearing No. HSS167, with maker’s mark and French assay mark for platinum, is of crossover design, and set with a pear modified brilliant-cut fancy intense pink diamond, weighing approximately 2.85 carats, and a pear brilliant-cut fancy vivid blue diamond, weighing approximately 2.42 carats. The shoulders and upper hoop of the ring are set with colorless baguette-cut diamonds. The gallery and upper hoop of the ring are set with circular-cut diamonds.
GIA report No. 2195137499 dated 1 March 2018, in respect of the pink diamond, states that the diamond is fancy intense pink, natural color and I1 clarity.
GIA report No. 2195137487 dated 28 February 2018, in respect of the blue diamond, states that the diamond is fancy vivid blue, natural color and VS2 clarity.
LOT 99 – A SUPERB TWIN-STONE COLORED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING – The property from a private collection, is another ring of crossover design, the third highlight of the sale with an estimate of USD 2,500,000 – USD 3,500,000. The size 5 ¾ platinum ring of crossover design is set with a pear brilliant-cut fancy vivid blue diamond, weighing approximately 2.10 carats, and a pear brilliant-cut colorless diamond, weighing approximately 1.98 carats, at the terminal ends of the ring, with a baguette-cut diamond set sub terminally.
GIA report No. 2195127117 dated 6 March 2018 states that the diamond, weighing approximately 2.10 carats, is fancy vivid blue, natural color and VS1 clarity. A supplemental letter annexed to the report states that the diamond has been determined to be a Type IIb diamond, which are of rare occurrence in nature, containing trace quantities of Boron, which impart a blue color to the diamonds.
A second GIA report no. 1196120023 dated 16 February 2018, states that the diamond, weighing approximately 1.98 carats, is D-color and VS1 clarity.
COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
The fourth highest valued lot of the sale is a colorless/white diamond lot, a creation by the renowned designer Joel Arthur Rosenthal (JAR), a thread ring titled, A MAGNIFICENT DIAMOND ‘THREAD’ RING, BY JAR assigned LOT NO. 211, and having a pre-sale estimate of USD 2,500,000 – 3,500,000. The platinum thread ring signed JAR Paris, is set with an elongated oval brilliant-cut diamond, within a two-tiered threadwork gallery and hoop, also set with tiny brilliant-cut diamonds. The elongated oval brilliant-cut diamond is a D-color, VVS1 clarity diamond, weighing approximately 22.76 carats.
GIA report No. 14150450 dated 30 January 2018 states that the oval brilliant-cut diamond is D-Color and VVS1 clarity, A supplemental Diamond Type Classification letter annexed to the report states that the diamond has been determined to be a Type IIa diamond, which confirms the D-color status of the diamond, which are chemically pure diamonds with exceptional optical transparency, known as diamonds of the purest water.
The lot which is the property of a lady was previously sold at Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels Sale held on October 10, 2006, bearing Lot No. 102 and was from the Collection of Ellen Barkin.
Other significant colorless diamond lots include Lots 87 and 205 the 6th and 7th highest valued lots.
LOT 87 – A DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of USD 1,650,000 – 1,800,000 is the 6th highest valued lot and the 2nd highest valued colorless diamond lot of the sale. The size 6, platinum ring is set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut, E-color, VS1 clarity diamond weighing approximately 33.46 carats, , flanked on either side by a tapered baguette-cut diamond on the shoulders of the ring.
GIA report no. 2195037833, dated 24 January 2018, states that the diamond is E-color and VS1 clarity.
Lot 205 – AN IMPORTANT DIAMOND – with an estimate of USD 1,200,000 – 1,800,00 is the 3rd highest valued colorless diamond lot of the sale. The unmounted round brilliant-cut, D-color, Internally Flawless clarity diamond weighing approximately 12.19 carats has an excellent cut, polish and symmetry.
GIA report no. 15192160 dated 18 September 2017 states that the diamond is D color, Internally Flawless clarity, with excellent cut, polish and symmetry, with a working diagram indicating that the clarity of the diamond is potentially Flawless.
SAPPHIRE LOTS
The 8th most valued and the most valued sapphire lot of the sale, the property of a private collector is LOT 72 – AN IMPORTANT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY CARTIER – with an estimate of USD 1,000,000 – 1,500,000
The 14 inch choker length platinum and 18k white gold Cartier necklace signed Cartier, and numbered 770836 and with French assay marks for platinum and 18k white gold, has a two-row circular-cut diamond-set navette-shaped link neckchain, accented by square-cut diamonds, from which a pendant consisting of a cushion-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 58.00 carats, and a modified square-cut 4.13-carat diamond placed above it, is suspended from a smaller cushion-cut sapphire weighing approximately 28.51 carats, attached to the link chain on both sides.
AGL report no. 1090790 dated 12 March 2018 states that the origin of the sapphire, weighing approximately 58.00 carats, would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka), with no gemological evidence of heat enhancement.
A second AGL report no. 1090789 dated 12 March 2018 states that the origin of the sapphire, weighing approximately 28.51 carats, would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka), with no gemological evidence of heat enhancement
Other significant sapphire lots include Lots 174 and 190.
The size 4 ½ platinum ring, signed Bulgari but partially indistinct, is of crossover design set with a pear-shaped sapphire, weighing approximately 5.10 carats, and a modified pear brilliant-cut diamond of matching size, weighing approximately 2.50 carats, , flanked by a tapered baguette and baguette-cut diamond scroll.
GGL report no. 18022047 dated 27 February 2018 states that the origin of this sapphire would be classified as Kashmir, with no indications of heat enhancement.
AGL report no. 1085910 dated 14 December 2017, states that the origin of this sapphire would be classified as Kashmir, with no gemological evidence of heat or clarity enhancement.
GIA report no. 6187695607 dated 1 September 2017 states that the diamond is I color and VS1 clarity.
LOT 190 – A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of USD 300,000 – 500,000 is the third sapphire highlight of the sale. The size 6 ½ platinum ring is set with a cushion-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 28.57 carats, within a circular-cut diamond surround and gallery accented by single-cut sapphires. The hoop of the ring is also pave-set with circular-cut diamonds.
AGL report no. 1090773 dated 27 February 2018 states that the origin of this sapphire would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka), with no gemological evidence of heat or clarity enhancement.
EMERALD LOTS
The 17.625 ins. Princess Length platinum and 18k gold pendant necklace, has a detachable pendant-brooch with an oval-cut 24.32-carat emerald as centerpiece highlighted by a two-tier surround of circular and marquise-cut diamonds suspended from a neckchain composed of a lower half of emerald-centered rosettes and an upper half set with oval-cut emeralds. The pendant-brooch is signed VCA and numbered NY 37754.
The lower half has a large median rosette, set with an 11.86-carat rectangular-cut emerald as centerpiece highlighted by a two-tier circular-cut diamond surround, with three smaller rosettes on either side set with graduated rectangular-cut emeralds as centerpiece with a total weight of approximately 10.53 carats, also highlighted by a two-tier circular-cut diamond surrounds. The links connecting the rosettes have an oval or circular-cut emerald as centerpiece, bounded by two marquise-shaped diamonds on one side placed with their pointed ends closer to one another forming a V-shape and two pear-shaped diamonds placed with their broader ends close to the free pointed end of the marquise-shaped diamonds, above and below the central emerald.
The upper half of the neckchain is set with eleven circular or oval-cut emeralds, one along the median line and five on either side of it. The links between the emeralds consist of a triad of pear-shaped emeralds and two diverging marquise-shaped emerald forming a V-shape. The Neckchain is signed VCA, and numbered NY 38359 and bears maker’s marks.
AGL report no. CS 1076525 dated 23 June 2016, states that the origin of the emerald in the pendant-brooch would be classified as Colombia, with minor clarity enhancement of traditional type accepted in the trade.AGL report no. CS 1076526 dated 23 June states that the origin of the largest rectangular-cut emerald in the necklace, weighing approximately 11.86 carats, would be classified as Classic Colombia, with insignificant to minor clarity enhancement of traditional type accepted in the trade.
Other significant emerald lots include Lots 204 and 58
LOT 204 – AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of USD 400,000 – 600,000 is the second most valued emerald lot of the sale. The size 6 ½ platinum ring is double claw set with a square cushion-cut emerald weighing approximately 23.34 carats, flanked on either side by a pair of trapezoid-cut colorless diamonds on the shoulders of the ring, the upper half of the hoop set with square-cut diamonds, further enhanced by a circular-cut diamond gallery
AGL report no. 1086801 dated 17 January 2018 states that the origin of this emerald would be classified as Colombia, with minor clarity enhancement of the traditional type, accepted in the trade.
RUBY LOTS
Among the ruby lot highlights are Lots 84, 98, 56 and 210.
LOT 84 – A SAPPHIRE, RUBY AND DIAMOND FRINGE NECKLACE, BY BULGARI – the property of a Lady, with an estimate of USD 180,000 – USD 250,000 is the top ruby highlight of the sale. The 16.25-inch (41.3 cm) choker length, 18k gold fringe necklace, signed Bulgari is set at the front with oval-cut sapphire and diamond clusters interspersed by circular cabochon rubies and diamond trefoils. suspending oval-cut sapphire and circular-cut diamond fringe. There are three such fringes on either side of the median fringe. The median longest fringe, is suspended from a ruby and diamond tetrafoil. The oval-cut sapphire and diamond clusters suspend two circular-cut diamonds and a single spherical cabochon ruby trefoil. Apart from the median cabochon ruby quatrefoil, two other ruby quatrefoils are placed symmetrically on either side of the median fringe, after two ruby trefoils, and suspending two circular-cut diamonds and single cabochon ruby trefoil.
The rear-half of the necklace is set with only a single row of circular-cut diamnds interspersed with only spherical cabochon ruby trefoils highlighted by an external row of circular-cut diamonds. There are four such trefoils placed symmetrically on either side of the rear median trefoil. At the points where the front and rear halves of the necklace meet, a single oval sapphire and diamond cluster is placed without any fringes attached.
AGL report no. 1090921 dated 12 March 2018, states that the origin of the sapphires would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka), with standard heat enhancement.
LOT 98 – A RUBY, SYNTHETIC RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – with an estimate of USD 100,000 -150,000 is the second most valued ruby lot of the sale. The 14-inch (35.5 cm), choker length, platinum and 18k gold necklace has as its centerpiece a circular and baguette-cut diamond centered mosaic consisting of four rows of circular, oval and cushion-cut rubies below and three such rows of rubies above, with twin baguette and circular-cut diamond scrolls on either side; followed on either side by triple row ruby centered oval motifs, lined by baguette-cut diamonds and a baguette diamond centered segment on either side, lined on either side by circular and oval cut rubies. The backchain is composed of a twin-row of circular-cut rubies and the clasp behind is set with baguette-cut and circular-cut diamonds.
AGL report no. 1090904 dated 12 March 2018, states that the origin of the 184 rubies tested at random, would be classified as Burma (Myanmar), with no gemological evidence of heat enhancement; and with 4 synthetic rubies.
SSEF report no. 35913 dated 28 September 2000, states that the analysed properties confirm the authenticity of the 208 rubies as Burma (Myanmar) with no indications of thermal enhancement; and with 4 synthetic rubies.
This lot, the property from a Manhattan private collection, was previously sold at a Christie’s Geneva, Magnificent Jewels auction held on November 16, 2000 under Lot No. 488.
LOT 56 – AN ART DECO RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – with an estimate of USD 80,000 – USD 120,000 is another ruby lot in the sale, the property from a private collection. The 7-inch (17.8 cm), circa 1935, platinum bracelet signed Van Cleef & Arpels, and bearing no. 45661 is designed as a three flexible panels set with oval and cushion-cut rubies and old-cut diamonds, joined by old and baguette-cut diamond links.
The lot is accompanied by a report from American Gemological Laboratories, stating that the origin of the rubies would be classified as Burma (Myanmar), with no gemological evidence of heat.
LOT 210 – AN ELEGANT RUBY AND DIAMOND ‘CAMELLIA’ BROOCH, BY CHANEL – with an estimate of USD 70,000 – USD 100,000 is another ruby lot of the sale. The 2.75-inch (7.0 cm), 18k gold brooch, signed Chanel and bearing no. 13E 173, centers upon a cushion-cut ruby pistil, weighing approximately 3.22 carats within an overlapping pavé-set ruby petal surround, accented by circular-cut diamond veining.
AGL report no. CS 68019-D dated 29 May 2015, states that the origin of this ruby would be classified as Thailand, with standard heat enhancement and minor clarity enhancement
This lot, the property from a distinguished collection was previously sold at Christie’s New York, Important Jewels sale, held on 5 December 2000 under Lot 455.
NATURAL PEARL LOTS
Top among the natural pearl lots is LOT 166 – another creation by JAR titled A SUPERB MULTI-GEM AND DIAMOND ‘MOGHUL’ PENDANT-BROOCH, BY JAR, which makes use of a tassel of natural pearls and has an estimate of USD 200,000 – 400,000.
The 5 inch long silver and 18k gold pendant-brooch inspired by the designs of Moghul Jewelry of India of the 16th to 18th centuries, was designed by JAR in 1999, as a stylized bombé architectural turret, characteristic of the Moghul period, centering upon a cushion-cut Ceylon/Sri Lanka blue sapphire weighing approximately 14.77 carats, pavé-set with circular-cut amethysts, bordered by a layer of single-cut diamonds, ending below in a cap or dome set with single-cut diamonds, suspending a natural pearl tassel. The reverse of the brooch is also decorated with single-cut diamond detail.
The 14.5 inches long detachable silver neckchain from which the pendant-brooch is suspended is set with single-cut diamond stations, of alternating collet-set tetrad and single diamonds. Other Natural Pearl Lots include Lots 50, 51 and 93 LOT 50 – AN ANTIQUE PEARL AND DIAMOND BROOCH – with an estimate of USD 15,000 – 20,000, is another natural pearl lot in the sale.
The circa 1880, 2.5 ins. Brooch is designed as a Scallop Shell set with a natural spherical pearl at the center, with a diameter of 10.48 mm, and radiating graduated rows of old-cut diamonds, increasing in size from the center towards the margin. In line with the median radiating row of diamonds, a detachable natural pearl drop, measuring approximately 10.97 mm, is suspended by a bell-cap arrangement also set with old-cut diamonds and another collet-set circular old-cut diamond placed above the bell-cap and the point of suspension. The central pearl and the diamonds are mounted on silver-topped gold.
GIA report no. 1192189272 dated 12 March 2018 states that the two pearls are natural, saltwater pearls, with no indications of treatment
LOT 93 – AN ANTIQUE NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BROOCH – with an estimate of USD 10,000 – 15,000 is a natural pearl lot of the sale. The 1.5 in (3.8 cm), circa 1885 platinum and gold brooch is designed as clover with four leaves set with old-cut diamonds along the periphery and enhanced by a button-shaped natural pearl in the center. The spherical or near-spherical pearls vary in diameter from 7.62 mm to 7.74 mm and has various hues such as white, golden, gray and black with various overtones.
GIA report no. 1196143582 dated 26 February 2018 states that the four pearls tested are natural, saltwater pearls, with no indications of treatment.
LOT 51 – A SEED PEARL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER – is another natural pearl lot with an estimate USD 5,000 – 7,000.
The 1.5 in (3.8 cm), circa 1935 Art Deco platinum brooch by Cartier, signed Cartier London and numbered 4552, is designed as two seed pearl flower blossoms, the stem set with baguette-cut diamonds and the leaves set with old-cut diamonds.
CULTURED PEARL LOTS
Significant cultured pearl lots at the sale are Lots 49, 172 and 155 Top lot among the cultured pearls is LOT 49 – A PAIR OF PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELETS, BY CARTIER – with an estimate of USD 30,000 – 50,000.
Each of the 18k gold and platinum bracelets of length 7 ins. (17.78 cm) and 7.5 ins. (19.05 cm) respectively are each composed of three strands of twenty pearls each; the diameter of the pearls in the former bracelet ranging from 5.24 – 7.57 cm and in the latter from 5.37 – 7.62 mm. The clasps at the ends of the bracelets are of geometric design collet set with two rows of circular-cut diamonds and a single row of pave-set circular-cut diamonds in the center. One bracelet has an additional rectangular segment in the clasp also of geometric design, with two rows of pave-set baguette-cut diamonds and two pave-set circular diamond rosettes in-between. Each bracelet is signed Cartier, and numbered N7812 with French assay marks for 18k gold and platinum.
GIA report no. 5191189526 dated 13 March 2018 states that of the 60 pearls in one of the bracelets, 46 are bead cultured pearls, and 14 are natural saltwater pearls.
GIA report no. 119218953 dated 13 March states that of the 60 pearls in the other bracelet, 56 are bead cultured pearls, and 4 are natural saltwater pearls.
The 34 ins (86 cm) Opera length cultured pearl necklace is composed of 61 graduated dark-gray cultured pearls, varying in diameter from 12.00 to 14.13 mm, separated by 18k white gold rondelles set with circular-cut diamonds, and a white gold clasp behind.
GIA report no. 2195088906 dated 23 February 2018, states that the pearls are bead cultured pearls, saltwater, with no indications of treatment.
LOT 155 – A BAROQUE CULTURED PEARL, DIAMOND AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET, BY DAVID WEBB – with an estimate of USD 12,000 – 18,000 is another significant pearl lot in the sale.
The 2.25 ins. (5.72 cm) diameter, 18k yellow gold and platinum bracelet signed Webb is designed as a hinged cuff with two interlocking hammered gold hoops, set at the top with a pair of baroque cultured pearls, enhanced by circular-cut diamond bands
AQUAMARINE LOTS
AN AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, BY PAUL FLATO, assigned LOT NO. 103 is a significant aquamarine lot with an estimate of USD 30,000 – USD 50,000. The 3.25 ins. (8.25 cm) platinum brooch signed Flato, designed circa 1940, is set with a rectangular step-cut aquamarine, enhanced by an old, circular and baguette-cut diamond overlapping spray.
CHALCEDONY LOTS
LOT 121 – A SAPPHIRE, CHALCEDONY AND DIAMOND RING, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – is a chalcedony lot with an estimate of USD 10,000 – 15,000. Ring size 6 1/2, 18k white gold ring Signed V.C.A, numbered 63117, with French assay marks and maker’s mark, is collet-set with a cabochon blue sapphire, with ash-colored chalcedony and circular-cut diamond spiral-set on the gallery and upper half-hoop of the ring.
